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Mode Business - La prochaine marque de streetwear d'un milliard de dollars.

Mode Business - La prochaine marque de streetwear d'un milliard de dollars.

ENTREPRISES

La prochaine marque de streetwear d'un milliard de dollars


Le marché, qui était autrefois une niche, fait l’objet de grosses évaluations avec le lancement de vêtements à forte marge. Vogue Business s'attaque aux nouveaux héritiers de la mode.

Points clés:

  • La demande de streetwear est aussi forte que jamais. Un sondage récent mené par Piper Jaffray a révélé que l'intérêt des adolescents américains pour des marques comme Supreme et Champion augmentait de façon exponentielle, tandis que Bain & Co. notait que les designs inspirés du streetwear continuaient de stimuler les ventes dans le secteur du luxe.
  • Les vêtements décontractés à prix élevé sont intéressants sur le plan commercial car ils sont relativement peu coûteux à produire. Dans le même temps, la demande est maintenue à des niveaux élevés en raison du modèle "drop" à édition limitée et temporisé.
  • Les investisseurs tournent autour de marques prêtes à égaler la valorisation d'un milliard de dollars de Supreme. Noah et Palace sont des cibles possibles. Ils proposent leurs propres interprétations de l’esthétique rendue populaire par Supreme.

Dans un rapport publié en 2018, Bain & Company a de nouveau souligné que le streetwear était un facteur de croissance pour le secteur du luxe. Le vêtement décontracté "reste un levier essentiel pour attirer de nouveaux clients" auprès des marques haut de gamme, a noté le conseil.

L'attention portée au streetwear n'est plus occasionnelle. À la fin de 2017, le groupe Carlyle a investi dans Supreme pour valoriser le label streetwear new-yorkais à un milliard de dollars. C’était un moment propice à une industrie déstabilisée par la croissance économique fluctuante, l’accélération du roulement du personnel créatif et des entreprises, et un paysage de la vente au détail essayant de s’adapter à un consommateur rebaptisé par Internet et les médias sociaux. Les marques qui existent au carrefour de la mode et du skateboard - Palace, Supreme et Noah, pour n'en citer que quelques-unes - ont le poids culturel jadis réservé aux marques de luxe haut de gamme telles que Gucci, Saint Laurent et Fendi.

Bienvenue à l'ère de la marque de streetwear d'un milliard de dollars. Survêtements et baskets sont les nouveaux costumes et brogues, les nouveaux symboles de statut sont les sweats à capuche oversize et les t-shirts graphiques, et une croissance explosive est prévue pour les marques autrefois considérées comme un créneau.

Emily Ratajkowski porte un short de vélo Kith.

© Getty Images

Emily Ratajkowski porte un short de vélo Kith

Ce streetwear est maintenant à la fois une catégorie et une tendance qui explique peut-être son moment prolongé au soleil. Mais, alors que certains prédisent que la demande de vêtements décontractés coûteux a dépassé son apogée , les chiffres révèlent une autre histoire. Outre les conclusions de Bain , la dernière version de l' enquête semestrielle menée par Piper Jaffray auprès des adolescents américains a révélé que l'intérêt pour les fourgonnettes est à son plus haut niveau, tandis que les champions de catégories comme Supreme, Champion et TH / CK sont la principale préoccupation des générations Z .

«Il y a eu une trajectoire ascendante», explique Katy Lubin, directrice des communications de la plate-forme mondiale de recherche de mode Lyst , ajoutant que l'esthétique dominante de la mode actuelle est un mélange de luxe, de streetwear et de vêtements de sport. fusionné pour devenir l’esthétique dominante qui fait avancer la mode ».

Qu'est-ce qui rend le streetwear si attrayant pour les investisseurs? Mortimer Singer, PDG de Traub, société de développement commercial qui exploite également une branche de participation au capital, note que l'offre principale de Supreme consiste en des vêtements à forte marge, tels que des sweats à capuche et des t-shirts, peu coûteux à fabriquer, mais grâce à un savoir-faire marketing avisé. des prix. Une catégorie qui inclut des marques telles que Vans et Converse n’était jamais haut de gamme par défaut, mais l’intérêt maniaque des consommateurs et la cooptation avisée des grands labels font que le streetwear vit désormais aux côtés du luxe.

Supreme contrôle également complètement son offre, ce qui lui permet de stimuler la demande. Ce modèle s’appuie également sur des marques de luxe telles que Goyard, connue pour sa disponibilité extrêmement limitée. Loin d'investir dans un sommet, l'investissement suprême de Carlyle semble seulement avoir incité plus d'argent à entrer dans la catégorie: le milliardaire Adrian Cheng a annoncé en octobre que son entreprise C Ventures dirigeait un investissement de 25 millions de dollars dans la plate-forme de streetwear chinoise Yoho.

Quelles sont les marques les plus susceptibles d'égaler la valorisation de 1 milliard de dollars de Supreme? Nous arrondissons les candidats probables ci-dessous.

4 noms à regarder

1. palais

Lancée à Londres en 2009 par Lev Tanju, la marque Palace mélange l'esthétique du streetwear et le modèle économique de la rareté à la Suprême. Ses racines profondes dans la culture du skateboard lui confèrent une authenticité intrinsèque. La collaboration de Palace avec Polo Ralph Lauren en 2018 et les campagnes de marketing effrontées mettant en vedette la fixation actuelle de la mode masculine, Jonah Hill, ont contribué à la propulser davantage dans la conscience du public. C'est un nouveau point d'obsession pour les hypebeasts qui se méfient de Supreme maintenant qu'elle est devenue «masse».

2. Noé

Lancé en 2015 par l'ancien directeur artistique de Supreme, Brendon Babenzien, il s'agit d'une tenue de skate pour les gars un peu plus grands. Pensez à la couture mélangée avec des plats plus décontractés et voyants, tous fabriqués à partir de tissus de luxe dans des usines et des ateliers où, selon la marque , «la tradition, le savoir-faire et la dignité humaine priment sur le résultat net». Babenzien a choisi un modèle de distribution de détail qui privilégie ses magasins de New York et de Tokyo, ainsi que la vente directe en ligne, par rapport à la vente en gros. Il existe également une paire de boutiques dans les boutiques du Dover Street Market de Londres et de Los Angeles récemment ouvertes.

3. Kith

Kith est une entreprise à double face. Fondé en 2011, Ronnie Fieg, fondateur de l'entreprise, a lancé sa propre empreinte afin d'accrocher d'autres marques de vêtements, une collection de baskets et un «bar» à base de céréales. Aujourd'hui, Kith compte cinq magasins et 1,7 million d' adeptes Instagram . La marque a également lancé un label féminin.

4. Blanc cassé

Virgil Abloh, directeur artistique de Louis Vuitton, est le fondateur et le concepteur de Off-White. Les motifs de conception graphique facilement identifiables de la marque (X surdimensionné, guillemets) et l'esthétique sport-rue-street l'ont aidé à décrocher le rôle de directeur de la création masculine chez Louis Vuitton. Off-White devrait toucher 40 magasins en 2019, grâce à des collaborations avec des marques telles que Nike, Rimowa et Converse, qui ont fait leurs débuts au cours des deux dernières années, et Abloh a dépassé le Lyst Hot Index , devançant ainsi Gucci et Balenciaga.

Source: Vogues Business

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